Rosanna’s Speke-tacular Uganda Journey

Rosanna ticked a big bucket list item off recently, visiting Uganda in late April/early May with Speke Holidays.  Claire chatted to her about her big adventure in search of gorillas … and much, much more.

Uganda is a landlocked country in East Africa, often referred to as the “Pearl of Africa” thanks to its stunning scenery and landscapes.  It is home to no less than ten National Parks and around half of the remaining mountain gorillas left in the wild – and is also the best place to spot Chimpanzees.  It is also the source of the world’s longest river, the River Nile and its chief reservoir, the immense Lake Victoria.

Rosanna, please share with us a little about your first impressions of Uganda? 

Uganda exceeded all my expectations as a safari destination. 

I think that chimpanzee trekking is massively undersold compared to gorilla trekking but was equally, if not more impressive. The quality of the lodges and the warmth of the local people blew me away.  I am still buzzing from the whole experience!

Can you share with us your rough itinerary?

I was part of a small fam group that did the classic 7-day 'Highlights Tour of Uganda' itinerary including Murchison Falls, boat safaris and of course primate trekking.

We started off in Entebbe with a stay at Latitude Zero hotel in Kampala, followed by Murchison Falls and two nights at Nile Safari Lodge (my favourite property on this trip!) right on the edge of the Nile River.

Our journey then continued to Kibale Forest National Park (which is pronounced Chi-bali), known for 13 different types of primates including chimps, staying at Primate Lodge located a stone’s throw from the chimp tracking starting point.

Queen Elizabeth National Park was next, staying at Elephant Plains property overlooking the Kazinga Channel. 

Our final destination was Bwindi National Park for gorilla trekking, staying at Volcanoes Bwindi Lodge (which is stunning of course!), with fantastic food, and convenient location less than five minutes from the gorilla trekking start point.

What did you think of the gorilla trekking?

We tracked the largest gorilla family, which has been habituated since 1992 and contains approximately 17 members, including two babies which made the group more sensitive to human presence.

The trek started with a briefing on rules, which are mainly: maintain distance (at least 10ft from chimps), no eating, to make minimal noise, no mimicking the animals, and to only sip water when absolutely necessary.

You get exactly one hour with the animals once located, though guides may end encounters early if animals show signs of discomfort, as happened during our gorilla trek, with the babies making them a little skittish.

What did you think of the Chimp experience?

The chimps were a revelation!  They have so much more personality than the gorillas, so it was a more dynamic and interactive wildlife encounter that exceeded all my expectations.

The chimpanzee treks are less crowded than gorilla treks – for example, we had only four people on ours compared to eight for the gorillas, creating a more intimate experience. The chimp trek was longer, quicker, and flatter than the gorilla trek.

Top Tips for planning a visit to Uganda  

1)     I travelled in the shoulder season (late April), which offered ideal weather conditions - warm but not too hot for all-day activities, with some rain but ground remaining relatively dry and not too boggy underfoot.

2)     Pack the right gear to make your climbing and hiking better. You don’t need to spend a fortune on buying safari outfits.   I wore my usual gym leggings with a breathable top which turned out to be far more comfortable than traditional safari outfits some of my companions were wearing.  Definitely worth packing waterproofs and proper hiking boots with high ankle supports - or trail running shoes that have very good grip as it can be steep and slippery.

3)     Take your time and linger longer in the country.  Uganda really needs (and appreciates) the tourism footfall, so by extending your time and not trying to combine too many countries together your tourism dollars can have a huge impact on the local people, uplift their economy and help protect wildlife.   

Who do you think this sort of holiday is best suited to?

Firstly, please don’t be put off worrying about how fit you need to be.  The treks are more accessible than people expect, and the guides always tailor the experience to your group's fitness level. Gorilla treks are slower, but steeper with porters available, while chimp treks are flatter but require quicker movements.

I think Uganda is best known and suited for travellers interested in primate viewing but equally works well for adventurous honeymoons due to the fabulous variety of properties situated throughout the region. They offer great white water river rafting!

Uganda is surprisingly good for first-time safari-goers as it also offers more traditional Big Five wildlife viewing, contrary to perceptions meaning people go elsewhere for safaris.

I’d say it is suitable for older families due to age restrictions for trekking activities (you need to be over 15 years as a minimum), but a lot of the lodges offer babysitting services if parents want to trek while children remain behind being well cared for and entertained.

What was your biggest highlight?

Murchison Falls and the Nile River were highlights of the trip, offering unique boat safaris that provided a different perspective compared to traditional game drives. Our boat safari was done in a small ‘tender’ style boat with Wild Frontiers for just four travellers, meaning it felt exclusive, intimate and special.

The general wildlife viewing exceeded all my expectations with 'hippos everywhere' and opportunities to get close to elephants playing in the water.   We also spotted tree climbing lions as well as leopard!

Murchison Falls was very impressive - narrow but fierce with multiple viewing perspectives available including driving to one area, walking to the top, and visiting the 'V point' where, as a visitor, you get completely soaked (fun and refreshing!).

One thing I must rave about was our visit to the rhino sanctuary which was a very special experience, featuring rescued rhinos including one from Orlando Zoo and another from Kenya.  We walked with the guides to observe the rhinos in their rehabilitated habitat.

Was there anything that surprised you?

The quality of safari game viewing, proving Uganda to be an excellent safari destination beyond just primate viewing.

Why do you think Speke Holidays offers the best possible experience?

Our Speke Guide was Tony Jr. throughout our journey, who was simply fantastic and brimmed with enthusiasm, knowledge and a contagious passion for Uganda.  He demonstrated exceptional respect for wildlife, prioritizing animal welfare and our safety over getting the best camera shot  - unlike some guides who might take risks for bigger tips.

Everywhere we went you could sense how well-known and highly respected Speke Uganda Holidays are locally. Speke worked closely with another fabulous DMC called Wild Frontiers who provided specific services such as our Nile Cruise and Bush Breakfast.

Their team is not only respected, but clearly has great relationships throughout the country, with the MD, Tony Mulinde being extremely well connected, sitting on the Uganda Tourism Board. They have a fabulous back story too.

I’m very proud to be a part of the Speke family and to represent them in the UK as part of the Travel Promoters’ team/portfolio! A huge thank you to Tony for hosting this incredible fam trip which was a massive bucket list tick for me and an experience I shall never forget or stop talking about!  If you have ever thought of visiting Uganda, do it!

Check out Rosanna’s Highlights from her trip to Uganda

• As always, check FCO latest travel advice when booking any travel.