Sirikoi Lodge: An Oasis of Green in Lewa Conservancy

Leanne talks us through her recent visit to Sirikoi and the moments that stood out for her as a guest experience.

Sirikoi has a way of settling over you the moment you arrive. Even though access was easy — a quick flight into Lewa Downs and a scenic detour through Ngare Ndare Forest for lunch — the real welcome happened at the lodge itself. The spring was alive with plains game, the lawns impossibly green, and Nditu, the resident giraffe, wandered over as if she’d been waiting for us. Sixteen years on from being rescued as a three‑day‑old calf, she is still a firm part of the Sirikoi family.

The lodge atmosphere is exactly what guests hope for but rarely find. Open decks that invite guests to stay, quiet corners, acacia trees full of birdlife — everything spaced out just enough to give privacy without losing the sense of being part of a shared space. Sue joining us for drinks on the first night, and then dinner the next, reinforced that feeling. She’s warm, humble, and wonderfully real. Knowing she spent most of her life living in a tent explains a lot about Sirikoi’s grounded, unpretentious character.

Game drives in Lewa were a highlight, especially the rhino sightings — more than we saw anywhere else on the trip. The terrain is beautiful: rolling hills, pockets of acacia forest, valleys that open into wide plains. Onesmus (Ness), Sonita and Ngila guided us, dressed in Maasai attire that added a refreshing touch of culture to the experience. With only around 30 vehicles across the conservancy, sightings are never crowded.

A visit to the Lewa Ops Centre added depth to the stay. Monica’s overview of how they monitor elephant and rhino movements across Lewa and Borana was impressive and a reminder of how much quiet work goes into keeping these landscapes safe. Sirikoi’s involvement with The Long Run and community initiatives is extensive.

Food at Sirikoi deserves its own mention. Fresh, wholesome, creative and largely sourced from the garden, it was consistently excellent. The team handled gluten‑free requirements effortlessly, producing muffins, breads and biscuits that tasted no different from the originals. Chef Machario’s 15 years at Sirikoi show in every dish.

Activities flowed naturally: a walk in Ngare Ndare Forest, lunch set up beautifully under the trees, a visit to Leparua village with singing, dancing and traditional games, and a gentle walk with ranger Ibrahim to the waterfalls. Each moment felt unforced and authentic.

Accommodation in the family tent was comfortable and spacious, with bathrooms that felt far more substantial than a typical tented option. Hot water bottles at night were a welcome touch in Lewa’s cooler evenings.

Sirikoi is peaceful, genuine and deeply connected to its surroundings. It’s the kind of lodge where guests feel part of daily life rather than observers — a rare quality that sets it apart.