Ailsa’s Visit to Lemala Wildwaters in Uganda

Lemala Wildwaters, Uganda  

Piki piki adventures, go ahead - jump & there’s nothing ‘fowl’ about my Guinea..

After a relaxing and refreshing night at Hemmingways in Nairobi, it was a short 1 hour flight from Nairobi to Entebbe. I was met by my guide from Speke Uganda Holidays, our DMC partners in Uganda and Rwanda…

A quick, but valuable catch up with Tony and his fabulous team at Speke head office Kampala, and it was onwards to Wildwaters. On paper the journey is around 2.5 hours, but ‘life’ in Kampala and the surrounds has an energy that makes you feel as if you have been thrown into the opening scene of a blockbuster movie. Peak traffic combined with true rural roads and pot holes that would make any mechanic weep and axel manufacturers jump for joy, meant it took longer. But the company of my guide, the ever smiling and waving children on the roadside and a stop to buy the best and most bananary tasting bananas in all of banana land meant it was all part of the complete Uganda experience and I was loving it!

First impressions of Lemala Wildwaters?

The road became truly rural and I caught a teasing glimpse of the river as we approached the gate to access the crossing, but nothing prepared me for my first full view. Lemala Wildwaters truly does sit small and firm slap bang in the middle of the Nile, with rapids rolling and barrelling all around it. Two of the team were ready with the island’s traditional style boat, complete with powerful engine and lifejackets. They manoevered the boat with skill and ease, knowing exactly the perfect path of calm water to navigate and glide me and my luggage, the 3 minute crossing to the lodge!

What did you think of the lodge?

Easy, this could be summarised in a bumper sticker ‘I love Wildwaters’.

From the winding network of raised platform paths that snake around the island North to South, East to West (Wildwaters is actually divided by a stream and inlets of water from the surrounding river) to the way each space is designed to maximise the drama of it’s location.

The main area captures views from every angle of the rushing water and rapids. The pool’s edge almost connects the river and lodge – it’s no wonder this lodge is a regular feature in ‘most instagrammable’ places.

The food was out of this world, the menu extensive. Robert, the GM and his team quickly became our friends and happy hosts.

The rooms offer an air conditioned cocoon with a personal choice of river calming noise cancelling doors ‘open or closed’ – for me it was open, all the way – who doesn’t love the sound of the Nile River sweeping past, whilst you drift to sleep in cool, crisp freshly laundered bedsheets… take me back !

Top Tips? 

1)    Book a spa treatment – I guarantee there are few massage bed locations in the world to beat this one!

2)    If you can, stretch the budget a little further for one of the two rooms that has a private plunge pool (as well as the outdoor bath that all rooms have). It has to be the ultimate ‘look at me’ selfie and one to frame when you are home. These rooms also offer in room dining as an additional benefit… honeymooners and romantics rejoice.

3)    Take a trip to the ‘source of the Nile’ – a physical location (a platform actually in the middle of the river) a short drive and then boat trip away.

4)    Go rafting … the ‘family’ raft is the easiest and still gives the thrills.

Who do you think Wildwaters is best suited to?

Honeymooners, couples and friends wanting to retreat – due to the nature and location, Wildwaters is suitable for adults or older teenagers only.

What was a highlight?

Visiting the numerous community projects that Lemala Wildwaters supports – we took Piki Piki bikes or Boda Bodas. If you imagine a cross between a hell’s angel gang and an outing from an old people’s home you will have a close mental image of how we ventured out that day, riding pillion with our local guides. It was captivating and humbling to learn about the small-scale coffee farmers, pineapple plantation, vanilla pod growers, basket weaving grandmother and other community initiatives that Lemala can support thanks to guests. Lemala has provided power to the entire local village and the community committee gathered to thank us. For me William, the potter had incredible talent and consequently I am the proud owner of two pottery guinea fowl adorning my windowsill at home!

Anything that surprised you?

Jump ! Across the river from Wildwaters at ‘Adrift’ is Uganda’s highest bungee… it’s a piece of cake, safety briefing and serious checks take 30 minutes, then a quick skip up the 6 stories, harness checked again, 3, 2, 1 ‘plop’… I jumped. If you have read and followed this far, you don’t know me that well and I love you for having belief in me, but not… a …. chance.

I did watch a colleague make the brave leap and I offered up suitably loud words of encouragement and congratulations. Wish I was that brave, or agile.

Ailsa’s Visit to Sirikoi, Kenya

Sirikoi, Lewa Conservancy, Kenya 

What happened to the gin bottle? My morning intruder & the Northern Five …

For the next session in our Q&A series with Ailsa, we chat about the 2nd stop on her journey - to Sirikoi Lodge in the Lewa Conservancy. Known for their eco-conscious ethos, exceptional blend of luxury, conservation, and immersive wildlife experiences.

Set in an exceptional location, surrounded by 68,000 acres of the pure wilderness of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, an award-winning model for community conservation. With just 4 luxury tented suites, the two bedroomed Sirikoi Cottage and the larger 3 bedroomed Sirikoi House, it is easy to see why Sirikoi has scooped award upon award over the years. In fact, just this April Ailsa collected 2 awards on behalf of Sirikoi at The Safari Awards at Indaba. Best Safari Experience & Best Family Safari Experience, Kenya.  

Ailsa, what were your first impressions of the Lewa region? 

I arrived into Lewa by road and left by air… the journey by car from Ol Lentille and Laikipia to the conservancy is not one that many will make, but it is certainly possible, gives you an insight into distances and local life and took around 4 hours including a coffee break. Did you know Kenya and Tanzania produce many of the cut flowers used around the world? I didn’t until I saw the swathes of greenhouses and flower farms as we ‘hit the road’ North from Nanyuki to Lewa.  Lewa the region was looking green & fresh as they had some early rain a day or two earlier and the conservancy was already showing it’s appreciation with long lush grass sprouting. It was a minute or maybe two, from the main gate when the reserve road gave way to open plains full of healthy herds of game and my first sighting of two of the Northern Five (unique to Northern Kenya)  – Grevy’s Zebra & reticulated giraffe… it was clear from the outset that game viewing was going to be easy pickings in Lewa and my 2 nights produced all of the Northern Five, plus  Cape Eland, Buffalo, Leopard, Lion, Elephant, Black and White Rhino, Burchell and Grevy’s Zebra, Grants Gazelle, Leopard Tortoise, Striped Hyena, Ostrich and more!

What did you think of Sirikoi?

Ngilla, my guide gave me some insight into Sirikoi and its backstory during our game drive from the main gate to the lodge. Just 5 lodges share access to the 62,000 acre reserve, so already I felt privileged. Sirikoi feels opulent, luxurious, but homely. Remaining true to its history and founders, Willie and Sue Roberts, pioneers with a passion for conservation and community. At Sirikoi 4 things truly matter, the guests, conservation, community and sustainability (including their environmental impact).

But it has to be the location of Sirikoi, along the banks of Sirikoi stream feeding the watering hole that grabs your attention as soon as you enter the main sitting room, looking out over the deck to the plains beyond. The Lewa Conservancy is a vital wildlife corridor so daily game sightings from the lodge or lawn are almost guaranteed.

The service and offering at Sirikoi is a finely oiled wheel, traditional and natural.  It was clear from the outset that this team have been operating together, successfully for many, many years. I had a reassuring sense that each team member not only loves their job but shares a passion to deliver a faultless experience during my stay in a relaxing and easy manner.

I stayed in one of the luxury tents with a brick-built shower and freestanding Victorian bathroom adding an extra luxurious touch. For me, nothing beats returning to the glow of a fire to keep you toasty under canvas, as the temperature dips along with the sun.

One night an Owl waited for me in the tree by my tent and kept watch, but it was the next morning I was aware, in half broken slumber, that the team had already dropped off my morning hot drinks tray and muffin  (along with my own Sirikoi thermal cup – nice touch) when I heard the zipper rise to my tent again… Turns out the monkeys like a morning muffin too, but luckily when there is a muffin at stake, I am faster than even I knew possible as I hit the floor running in the ‘great muffin race across the room’

Any Top Tips?

1)    Sirikoi has the most impressive organic kitchen garden, tended by 9 staff… over an acre and growing (pardon the pun), there is little to nothing they don’t grow bringing fresh vegetables, herbs, fruit and flowers to the lodge daily as well as medicinal plants to make their own organic pesticides. Wormery to create compost, bee hives, chickens and even a BSF (black soldier fly) enclosure (those suckers love the leftover meat and other non-compostable edibles), meaning zero kitchen waste!

2)    Include the entire back of house tour – as members of ‘The Long Run’ Sirikoi recycle, re-use and repurpose almost everything and handle 100% of their own waste. One team member proudly showed me how his work is to turn old alcohol and glass bottles (Bombay Sapphire was a personal favourite, not to drink but to see what they made from the bottle) into beautiful drinking tumblers and vases that adorn the lodge (even glass that can’t be reused, is ground down for use in building sand) The lodge runs100% on solar power with an impressive battery invertor room. All water is gravity fed from a natural spring to the lodge. Sustainable practices include an impressive purpose-built game vehicle washing station that reuses the water 3 times from kitchen to vehicle cleaning and finally on to irrigation.  It is beyond impressive…  

3)    Visit the Lewa Conservancy Head Office and learn about the 24/7 work that goes into monitoring and conserving. Interesting fact: Paul Allen, one of the co-founders of Microsoft, visited Lewa in 2013 and gifted the Earth Ranger software used to this day.

4)    Leave room in your luggage – the lodge shop is too much to resist.

5)    Make time to enjoy the spa and newly completed sauna. The massages are amazing!

Who do you think this sort of holiday is best suited to?

Anyone from 1 to 100 yrs old. Families, honeymooners, singles and celebrations big or small. Guests that want to experience an uncrowded big 5 safari, but also with the added draw of the ‘Northern 5’ – Lewa has the largest resident population of Grevy’s zebra in the world. Black and white rhino and many other unique species, including our own ‘tame’ Giraffe ‘Ndito’ who often wanders the lawns by day.

 What was your biggest highlight?

The organic garden – I can only dream of having the green fingers of George Kaberia, the head groundsman. Step aside Monty Don & Alan Titchmarsh, there’s a new hero in town.

Was there anything that surprised you?

The open-door policy of the lodge back of house operation – guests can visit at any time, proving the authenticity and consistency with all that Maria, the GM and the team at Sirikoi achieve both front and back of house.

Why do you think Sirikoi offers the best possible experience in the region?

Sirikoi’s foundations are as strong as they get, thanks to their owners, Willie and Sue Roberts. Willie was a true pioneer in the conservation and sustainable wildlife/hospitality industry, opening his first lodge at the age of just 19. Instrumental in establishing the Mara Conservancy and one of the greatest ambassadors for wildlife conservation Kenya has ever seen. You simply cannot manufacture a legacy, but you can experience an insight into how far we have come and continue to support it by staying at Sirikoi, it’s as close as you can get.

I waved goodbye to Sirikoi and found a small part of my heart drifting back to the lodge as we drove the short 15 minutes to the Lewa airstrip for my departure to Nairobi Wilson.

Rosanna’s Speke-tacular Uganda Journey

Rosanna ticked a big bucket list item off recently, visiting Uganda in late April/early May with Speke Holidays.  Claire chatted to her about her big adventure in search of gorillas … and much, much more.

Uganda is a landlocked country in East Africa, often referred to as the “Pearl of Africa” thanks to its stunning scenery and landscapes.  It is home to no less than ten National Parks and around half of the remaining mountain gorillas left in the wild – and is also the best place to spot Chimpanzees.  It is also the source of the world’s longest river, the River Nile and its chief reservoir, the immense Lake Victoria.

Rosanna, please share with us a little about your first impressions of Uganda? 

Uganda exceeded all my expectations as a safari destination. 

I think that chimpanzee trekking is massively undersold compared to gorilla trekking but was equally, if not more impressive. The quality of the lodges and the warmth of the local people blew me away.  I am still buzzing from the whole experience!

Can you share with us your rough itinerary?

I was part of a small fam group that did the classic 7-day 'Highlights Tour of Uganda' itinerary including Murchison Falls, boat safaris and of course primate trekking.

We started off in Entebbe with a stay at Latitude Zero hotel in Kampala, followed by Murchison Falls and two nights at Nile Safari Lodge (my favourite property on this trip!) right on the edge of the Nile River.

Our journey then continued to Kibale Forest National Park (which is pronounced Chi-bali), known for 13 different types of primates including chimps, staying at Primate Lodge located a stone’s throw from the chimp tracking starting point.

Queen Elizabeth National Park was next, staying at Elephant Plains property overlooking the Kazinga Channel. 

Our final destination was Bwindi National Park for gorilla trekking, staying at Volcanoes Bwindi Lodge (which is stunning of course!), with fantastic food, and convenient location less than five minutes from the gorilla trekking start point.

What did you think of the gorilla trekking?

We tracked the largest gorilla family, which has been habituated since 1992 and contains approximately 17 members, including two babies which made the group more sensitive to human presence.

The trek started with a briefing on rules, which are mainly: maintain distance (at least 10ft from chimps), no eating, to make minimal noise, no mimicking the animals, and to only sip water when absolutely necessary.

You get exactly one hour with the animals once located, though guides may end encounters early if animals show signs of discomfort, as happened during our gorilla trek, with the babies making them a little skittish.

What did you think of the Chimp experience?

The chimps were a revelation!  They have so much more personality than the gorillas, so it was a more dynamic and interactive wildlife encounter that exceeded all my expectations.

The chimpanzee treks are less crowded than gorilla treks – for example, we had only four people on ours compared to eight for the gorillas, creating a more intimate experience. The chimp trek was longer, quicker, and flatter than the gorilla trek.

Top Tips for planning a visit to Uganda  

1)     I travelled in the shoulder season (late April), which offered ideal weather conditions - warm but not too hot for all-day activities, with some rain but ground remaining relatively dry and not too boggy underfoot.

2)     Pack the right gear to make your climbing and hiking better. You don’t need to spend a fortune on buying safari outfits.   I wore my usual gym leggings with a breathable top which turned out to be far more comfortable than traditional safari outfits some of my companions were wearing.  Definitely worth packing waterproofs and proper hiking boots with high ankle supports - or trail running shoes that have very good grip as it can be steep and slippery.

3)     Take your time and linger longer in the country.  Uganda really needs (and appreciates) the tourism footfall, so by extending your time and not trying to combine too many countries together your tourism dollars can have a huge impact on the local people, uplift their economy and help protect wildlife.   

Who do you think this sort of holiday is best suited to?

Firstly, please don’t be put off worrying about how fit you need to be.  The treks are more accessible than people expect, and the guides always tailor the experience to your group's fitness level. Gorilla treks are slower, but steeper with porters available, while chimp treks are flatter but require quicker movements.

I think Uganda is best known and suited for travellers interested in primate viewing but equally works well for adventurous honeymoons due to the fabulous variety of properties situated throughout the region. They offer great white water river rafting!

Uganda is surprisingly good for first-time safari-goers as it also offers more traditional Big Five wildlife viewing, contrary to perceptions meaning people go elsewhere for safaris.

I’d say it is suitable for older families due to age restrictions for trekking activities (you need to be over 15 years as a minimum), but a lot of the lodges offer babysitting services if parents want to trek while children remain behind being well cared for and entertained.

What was your biggest highlight?

Murchison Falls and the Nile River were highlights of the trip, offering unique boat safaris that provided a different perspective compared to traditional game drives. Our boat safari was done in a small ‘tender’ style boat with Wild Frontiers for just four travellers, meaning it felt exclusive, intimate and special.

The general wildlife viewing exceeded all my expectations with 'hippos everywhere' and opportunities to get close to elephants playing in the water.   We also spotted tree climbing lions as well as leopard!

Murchison Falls was very impressive - narrow but fierce with multiple viewing perspectives available including driving to one area, walking to the top, and visiting the 'V point' where, as a visitor, you get completely soaked (fun and refreshing!).

One thing I must rave about was our visit to the rhino sanctuary which was a very special experience, featuring rescued rhinos including one from Orlando Zoo and another from Kenya.  We walked with the guides to observe the rhinos in their rehabilitated habitat.

Was there anything that surprised you?

The quality of safari game viewing, proving Uganda to be an excellent safari destination beyond just primate viewing.

Why do you think Speke Holidays offers the best possible experience?

Our Speke Guide was Tony Jr. throughout our journey, who was simply fantastic and brimmed with enthusiasm, knowledge and a contagious passion for Uganda.  He demonstrated exceptional respect for wildlife, prioritizing animal welfare and our safety over getting the best camera shot  - unlike some guides who might take risks for bigger tips.

Everywhere we went you could sense how well-known and highly respected Speke Uganda Holidays are locally. Speke worked closely with another fabulous DMC called Wild Frontiers who provided specific services such as our Nile Cruise and Bush Breakfast.

Their team is not only respected, but clearly has great relationships throughout the country, with the MD, Tony Mulinde being extremely well connected, sitting on the Uganda Tourism Board. They have a fabulous back story too.

I’m very proud to be a part of the Speke family and to represent them in the UK as part of the Travel Promoters’ team/portfolio! A huge thank you to Tony for hosting this incredible fam trip which was a massive bucket list tick for me and an experience I shall never forget or stop talking about!  If you have ever thought of visiting Uganda, do it!

Check out Rosanna’s Highlights from her trip to Uganda

• As always, check FCO latest travel advice when booking any travel.

Ailsa’s Visit to Ol Lentille, Kenya

Ol Lentille, Kenya  

Fermented milk, a camel & the marathon man…

Join us for the first of our Q&A sessions with Ailsa as we chat about her incredible trip in March that led her to Laikipia and Lewa in Kenya, followed by Wildwaters in Uganda and finally to the beautiful Tanzania.

‘First on my itinerary was Ol Lentille where 4, fully serviced luxury villas are set within Ol Lentille’s 40,000 acre conservation area in Laikipia, Kenya. Regarded as one of the most unique safari lodges in Kenya for its unmatched location, rare beauty, and ancient roots, Ol Lentille offers a very different approach to luxury travel fuelled and inextricably linked to conservation and community.   

Ailsa, please share with us a little about your first impressions of the Laikipia region? 

No matter how many times you have done it, for me, nothing beats the exhilaration & anticipation of arriving by small plane into a dirt airstrip in Africa. My arrival into Laikipia was no exception. Safari Link connects from Nairobi Wilson in less than an hour. Loisaba air strip (it’s one building, so no terminal dashing or conveyor congestion here. In fact, no dashing, full stop - heavenly) offers a small, well-kept building, with bathroom facilities and information on the valuable work the conservation team undertake. But before that, by the runway, we were met with the customary broad smiles of 2 guides who greeted myself and a family of 4 heading to a different location.  The sun was shining and a sense of mental detox, set in immediately as Solomon, my guide and I hit the road for the 75-minute drive to the lodge…. Unhurried, uncrowded & breathtaking are my buzz words for this region.

What did you think of Ol Lentille?

Wow – something I really didn’t fully comprehend from the images and that can’t be captured entirely online, is the location. Not just the lodge as a whole, but the precise and unique positioning of the villas and main areas which all straddle the ridge of one of the highest points in the region. The result, be it from the poolside, spa, your villa or The Gallery is each location offers a unique, breathtaking and uninterrupted view.

The current custodians of Ol Lentille have put a considerable amount of thought, time and investment into the attention to detail and décor of each villa/house/suite. It’s an overused cliché, but the staff effortlessly fell into a pace and rhythm that suited me and the many things I wanted to experience and do over the coming days, meaning I instantly felt relaxed, cared for and ‘at home’.

More than anything, the standout must be the activities, experiences and community partnerships which I will talk about a little further on.

Top Tips?

1)    Combine Ol Lentille with another game experience, visiting the Maasai Mara or Lewa Conservancy first would be my preference, but equally can be reversed. The ‘take-away’ and memories from your stay at Ol Lentille will carry greater meaning and your appreciation for the authenticity each and every activity and interaction will be more deeply rooted.

2)    3 nights is not enough! Activities are numerous and you will want to do them all.

a.     Go to the local goat and cattle market and true local market (children were stroking my skin and wanted to touch my hair… this was not the tourism hot spots I had experienced on other trips and the experience a first for me! This was the real and often unseen Kenya…

b.      Spend an evening or afternoon at a local Manyatta (village), be a guest at a local wedding or circumcision (honestly… I was relieved there wasn’t one taking place… but the explanation was fascinating and eye watering at the same time!)

c.     Take a camel safari, riding to the river rewarding yourself (and your camel) with a leisurely lunch by the river side as local herdsmen (young boys) bring their goats to drink.

d.     Join the Maasai and Samburu villagers at the ‘singing wells’ -this is unique to this region and something normally the preserve of their tribe. The careful integration between Ol Lentille and the community ensures guests are welcome and, in the least, ‘tourist’ way possible, this is a huge tick.

e.     Walk with baboons. Normally known to be aggressive and unapproachable, this is the world’s only habituated baboon colony, living wild, but having been studied for decades, the two conservationists studying them daily, will guide you as you walk quietly alongside the troop as they come home to ‘roost’ for the night…

f.      Visit the schools & hospital that Ol Lentille supports, it is truly humbling and rewarding to see, first hand, how invaluable the support from tourism contributions are.

3)    Lastly, make sure you take time to include bush breakfasts, sundowners dining, star gazing and the vast and varied walking Ol Lentille has to offer.

4)    Pick a movie and enjoy a fireside boma outdoor movie night.

5)    Dance with the local warriors, enjoy star gazing the unpolluted skies from the various decks and viewpoints.

Who do you think this sort of holiday is best suited to?

Guests that want to experience not only the bush and unique topography of Northern Kenya, but adventure & connection. An authentic Africa, and whilst doing so truly benefit, the local community, without compromising standards of accommodation, breadth of activity, experiences, dining & remote relaxation. 

What was your biggest highlight?

Solomon and Boni (their backstory) and our many adventures.

I believed I had experienced ‘community’ before, but this was the first time I truly felt as if my interactions were unscripted, unplanned and genuinely spontaneous. We exchanged lifestyle differences and insights, with equal interest and fascination. Sitting with Boni and Solomon and their relatives, sharing Kenyan tea (goats milk infused with a herb and lots of sugar) as well as fermented milk… swapping stories and questions, has left a lasting impression.

Solomon, my guide was a leading Kenyan marathon runner until his international career was accidentally brought to a halt by another runner tripping him up during the London Marathon. That year he was set to lead the pack with a PB that has only been beaten by a handful of others since. He has travelled the world ‘running’ (he is very tall and fast I am told!) and is not only head of the local community, but led me on 3 days of adventure, friendship and insight. He currently runs a running club for over 600 youngsters, talked me through their community beliefs, traditions, expectations and so much more.

Boniface, our very own Camel man (well he actually owns the camels) and the community mediator. Also, a guide at Ol Lentille. A one-time TV personality being one of the two Maasai/Samburu plucked from rural Africa to star in ‘Two Kenyan Guys’ a National Geographic docuseries several years ago. Boni and his friend Lemarti were sent to New York, Texas and beyond, recording their reactions to life on another continent. (google it… a clip is still available on You Tube) Boni is also an extreme rally driving champion and has a fabulous sense of humour. Yet, all that aside, listening to Boni sing to sooth the camels as he guided them (and we rode) to the river,  showed you can take the man out of Africa, but you will never take Africa out of these men.

Was there anything that surprised you?

The Maasai and Samburu men and women that I met and learnt about. Many have experienced and pursued lives in other countries… stockbroker in New York, lawyer in Europe to world class athletes I recall being mentioned, yet the allure and pull of their community, simplicity of their lifestyle and the sheer magnetism and beauty of Laikipia draws them home… having visited, I can fully appreciate why.

Why do you think Ol Lentille offers the best possible experience?

For all the reasons above and more… I could recant stories for hours. The experiences offered are not easily replicated or offered at just ‘any’ location or lodge. Ol Lentille has harnessed, embraced and delivers a unique offering. 

Take a sneak peak at Ailsa's highlights from her recent trip to Ol Lentille in the Laikipia Conservancy of Northern Kenya.