Ailsa’s Visit to Sirikoi, Kenya
Sirikoi, Lewa Conservancy, Kenya
What happened to the gin bottle? My morning intruder & the Northern Five …
For the next session in our Q&A series with Ailsa, we chat about the 2nd stop on her journey - to Sirikoi Lodge in the Lewa Conservancy. Known for their eco-conscious ethos, exceptional blend of luxury, conservation, and immersive wildlife experiences.
Set in an exceptional location, surrounded by 68,000 acres of the pure wilderness of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, an award-winning model for community conservation. With just 4 luxury tented suites, the two bedroomed Sirikoi Cottage and the larger 3 bedroomed Sirikoi House, it is easy to see why Sirikoi has scooped award upon award over the years. In fact, just this April Ailsa collected 2 awards on behalf of Sirikoi at The Safari Awards at Indaba. Best Safari Experience & Best Family Safari Experience, Kenya.
Ailsa, what were your first impressions of the Lewa region?
I arrived into Lewa by road and left by air… the journey by car from Ol Lentille and Laikipia to the conservancy is not one that many will make, but it is certainly possible, gives you an insight into distances and local life and took around 4 hours including a coffee break. Did you know Kenya and Tanzania produce many of the cut flowers used around the world? I didn’t until I saw the swathes of greenhouses and flower farms as we ‘hit the road’ North from Nanyuki to Lewa. Lewa the region was looking green & fresh as they had some early rain a day or two earlier and the conservancy was already showing it’s appreciation with long lush grass sprouting. It was a minute or maybe two, from the main gate when the reserve road gave way to open plains full of healthy herds of game and my first sighting of two of the Northern Five (unique to Northern Kenya) – Grevy’s Zebra & reticulated giraffe… it was clear from the outset that game viewing was going to be easy pickings in Lewa and my 2 nights produced all of the Northern Five, plus Cape Eland, Buffalo, Leopard, Lion, Elephant, Black and White Rhino, Burchell and Grevy’s Zebra, Grants Gazelle, Leopard Tortoise, Striped Hyena, Ostrich and more!
What did you think of Sirikoi?
Ngilla, my guide gave me some insight into Sirikoi and its backstory during our game drive from the main gate to the lodge. Just 5 lodges share access to the 62,000 acre reserve, so already I felt privileged. Sirikoi feels opulent, luxurious, but homely. Remaining true to its history and founders, Willie and Sue Roberts, pioneers with a passion for conservation and community. At Sirikoi 4 things truly matter, the guests, conservation, community and sustainability (including their environmental impact).
But it has to be the location of Sirikoi, along the banks of Sirikoi stream feeding the watering hole that grabs your attention as soon as you enter the main sitting room, looking out over the deck to the plains beyond. The Lewa Conservancy is a vital wildlife corridor so daily game sightings from the lodge or lawn are almost guaranteed.
The service and offering at Sirikoi is a finely oiled wheel, traditional and natural. It was clear from the outset that this team have been operating together, successfully for many, many years. I had a reassuring sense that each team member not only loves their job but shares a passion to deliver a faultless experience during my stay in a relaxing and easy manner.
I stayed in one of the luxury tents with a brick-built shower and freestanding Victorian bathroom adding an extra luxurious touch. For me, nothing beats returning to the glow of a fire to keep you toasty under canvas, as the temperature dips along with the sun.
One night an Owl waited for me in the tree by my tent and kept watch, but it was the next morning I was aware, in half broken slumber, that the team had already dropped off my morning hot drinks tray and muffin (along with my own Sirikoi thermal cup – nice touch) when I heard the zipper rise to my tent again… Turns out the monkeys like a morning muffin too, but luckily when there is a muffin at stake, I am faster than even I knew possible as I hit the floor running in the ‘great muffin race across the room’
Any Top Tips?
1) Sirikoi has the most impressive organic kitchen garden, tended by 9 staff… over an acre and growing (pardon the pun), there is little to nothing they don’t grow bringing fresh vegetables, herbs, fruit and flowers to the lodge daily as well as medicinal plants to make their own organic pesticides. Wormery to create compost, bee hives, chickens and even a BSF (black soldier fly) enclosure (those suckers love the leftover meat and other non-compostable edibles), meaning zero kitchen waste!
2) Include the entire back of house tour – as members of ‘The Long Run’ Sirikoi recycle, re-use and repurpose almost everything and handle 100% of their own waste. One team member proudly showed me how his work is to turn old alcohol and glass bottles (Bombay Sapphire was a personal favourite, not to drink but to see what they made from the bottle) into beautiful drinking tumblers and vases that adorn the lodge (even glass that can’t be reused, is ground down for use in building sand) The lodge runs100% on solar power with an impressive battery invertor room. All water is gravity fed from a natural spring to the lodge. Sustainable practices include an impressive purpose-built game vehicle washing station that reuses the water 3 times from kitchen to vehicle cleaning and finally on to irrigation. It is beyond impressive…
3) Visit the Lewa Conservancy Head Office and learn about the 24/7 work that goes into monitoring and conserving. Interesting fact: Paul Allen, one of the co-founders of Microsoft, visited Lewa in 2013 and gifted the Earth Ranger software used to this day.
4) Leave room in your luggage – the lodge shop is too much to resist.
5) Make time to enjoy the spa and newly completed sauna. The massages are amazing!
Who do you think this sort of holiday is best suited to?
Anyone from 1 to 100 yrs old. Families, honeymooners, singles and celebrations big or small. Guests that want to experience an uncrowded big 5 safari, but also with the added draw of the ‘Northern 5’ – Lewa has the largest resident population of Grevy’s zebra in the world. Black and white rhino and many other unique species, including our own ‘tame’ Giraffe ‘Ndito’ who often wanders the lawns by day.
What was your biggest highlight?
The organic garden – I can only dream of having the green fingers of George Kaberia, the head groundsman. Step aside Monty Don & Alan Titchmarsh, there’s a new hero in town.
Was there anything that surprised you?
The open-door policy of the lodge back of house operation – guests can visit at any time, proving the authenticity and consistency with all that Maria, the GM and the team at Sirikoi achieve both front and back of house.
Why do you think Sirikoi offers the best possible experience in the region?
Sirikoi’s foundations are as strong as they get, thanks to their owners, Willie and Sue Roberts. Willie was a true pioneer in the conservation and sustainable wildlife/hospitality industry, opening his first lodge at the age of just 19. Instrumental in establishing the Mara Conservancy and one of the greatest ambassadors for wildlife conservation Kenya has ever seen. You simply cannot manufacture a legacy, but you can experience an insight into how far we have come and continue to support it by staying at Sirikoi, it’s as close as you can get.
I waved goodbye to Sirikoi and found a small part of my heart drifting back to the lodge as we drove the short 15 minutes to the Lewa airstrip for my departure to Nairobi Wilson.